Archive of Thread: A question about Cast On Combs Back

2 years ago

I have, yet, another question.

How long do you need to keep cast on combs on your project? This is my problem.

First, I know they keep an even weight across your stitches and stabilize them on the needles. Mynissue is when making hand manipulated rib.

My current project has you knit 14 rows, drop 8 rows eon and reform to make rib. 

My problem is that the cast on comb gets in the way. I have to hold my hand at the bottom of the project to be able to reform these stitches. With the cast on comb, I cannot do that. I have to remove the cast on comb so I can grab the material from below the row and pull down, just a tad. Holding it keeps everything still and allows me to control the stitches on the needles and the drop down stitch. 

I have hung fairly heavy clips, heavy for a clip, across the bottom to replace the cast on comb. I ordered a couple more claw weights to use across the bed, to replace the cast on comb after the fabric is too long and the cast on comb is catching my legs. After I receive them, I will hang one on each side of the stitches I am reforming. 

Also, I did "Rehang" the cast on comb after I finished by hanging it below the ravel cord. This gave the weight across the center stitches. The claw weights in the edge don't really do much for those. I am using 58 needles. 

How long do most machine knitters leave the cast on comb on? Does anyone else rehang below the ravel cord? 

2 years ago
Cynthia,
this is a tough one to answer.

Single bed:

We use cast on comb to get things started and to keep even weigh on our knitting. Once it does it's job, it really isn't needed

Fact is, for some machines and yarns you can cast on WITHOUT a comb. (I can cast on my 970 without a comb or weights, but my Taitexma needs a comb and weights)

We add weight to our knitting so the stitches knit off cleanly. Think of using your fingers to "adjust" a stitch on a hand knitting needle.

The amount of weight needed depends on the yarn, gauge and stitch pattern (for example, tuck and lace need more weight than plain knitting). 

There are times when I don't use any weight, except for the edge stitches.  (single bed only - ribber needs steady weight)

As your knitting grows, it automatically adds weight. 

IMHO moving the caston comb up isn't necessary.

Watch the formation of the stitches - do you need more weight?

I'm sure other knitters will have a different opinion.  This is part of the learning curve ... what works for YOU?

Sue

2 years ago
If I'm casting on double bed I leave the comb on, but single bed I just add edge weights as long as the stitches are knitting ok. 
With tuck you need more weights, and I quickly make sure the stitches knit after every row...
I have different machines and some tend to need weights and some don't  - think it's trial and error sometimes... 

2 years ago
I noticed with the yarn I am currently using, yes, that Bernat Baby yarn, the middle stitches are not firm on the bed. Right at the needle, the yarn has a curl like it wants to come off the needle, and is very easy to fall off, as I noticed when reforming the back of the sweater. I had the same issue with the front when reforming for the ribbing.

I removed the comb because, as I said, it interfered with the reforming. I gently tugged to secure the stitches I was reforming and a couple before and after. I then just did a very gentle tug across the bed to re-seed the stitches onto the needles. The weights on the ends really do a good job on the end stitches. But, the middle stitches wanted to pop off, and did, occasionally. I grabbed them with the latch hook tool from the back side and then transferred to my one stitch transfer tool to put back on the needle. This way the stitch was picked up as a purl. I think I did that right. It only happened a couple times. I then got to thinking that I should not have removed the cast on comb. But with reforming the stitches, and the cast on comb giving me issues, I was afraid I was going to pop everything off the bed, or a lot of stitches off the needles. 

What I did was, I hung clips along the bottom of the back. I have a semi-heavy clamp that I used around the needles of the column of stitches I was reforming. I adjust so that heavier clamp was hung below the stitches as I moved along, the lighter clips are then placed where that clamp was. That helped tame those stitches while I was reforming. I did the same thing for the front. I have since finished reforming for the ribbing on the front piece since asking about the cast on comb.

I ordered 2 more claw weights from Knit Knack Shop. My thinking is that I can use those across the bed, with yarn that needs it, after the cast on comb becomes cumbersome. Judging from the responses, I think I could be right. I might have to order another when I make a larger item that needs more needles. This is just using 58 needles. 

So, I guess I will do whatever I need based on the yarn I am using. This is very lightweight yarn, so, that is probably why it wants to come off the needles so easily. Even with it such a long piece now, 70 rows, plus waste yarn rows, and stitches still are not seeded nicely in the needles. But, I am learning how to tame it and did manage to do the back and am about to start forming the neck opening on the front. �

The yarn I am using definitely needs the weights. Adding the comb back, at the top of the waste yarn section tames those stitches, I like it better without the comb, at this point. I believe the extra claw weights, after I get them will help and I can just put the cast on comb away. It is making a nice soft sweater, though. The girls will love it, if it actually looks like a sweater when I am done, 🤣😂.

I thought maybe the comb needed to remain one until done, and I could see a problem with the floor and comb, too, if I was making a larger item. 

Thank you. I don't want bad habits forming.