C Q
Cynthia Quill

1 year ago

I was going to start a sweater for myself, but I need at least one more small sweater. I need to be able to do one from start to finish, uninterrupted. I was going to swatch last night, but I was tired, and so that was not a good idea. So, in a little while, I will swatch, wash it, and block it and count out the stitches and rows. I am watching Swatching is Not Optional, first. 

I have the size chart for kids and will use that to make it so it will fit a 4 year old. 

I do have a question, about experience any of you have had with blocking acrylic. I remember, maybe a few years ago, trying to block something made of acrylic, using an iron, a towel between the item and iron. It was a test item. It didn't seem to do anything at all to shape it and flatten out those seams. The shoulder and sleeves still curled into each other, as did the armhole and sides. The hems, still curled. 

So, I removed the towel, lowered the heat to the acrylic setting, and after it cooled, I tried again. The yarn got drapey. I actually liked the soft drape. It made my yarn much lighter and summerier. 

Has anyone done this on purpose? Is this bad for the yarn? I suspect that after it is washed that it will go back to as it was before any blocking was done ie curled hems, curled in seams, etc? From what I gathered, blocking does not hold and it has to be done after every washing? So, I was wondering if making it into a drapey material washes out, too. 

So, if I want to do that with this, I need to make the swatch as drapey, not melting the acrylic, as I want the finished product and then measure, correct? 

I am going to read up on proper blocking after I finish my swatch so that I do that correctly. You block before creating the gauge, right? I believe that is what I read or saw in a video. 

I am going to get this. I need to remember to stop when I get frustrated, though. I want to learn how to do this so much and I have a hard time just stopping. It is fun to do. I should make a sign and hang it on the wall. 

Off to watch the swatching video.

J G
Joy Green

1 year ago
Hi Cynthia
Blocking normally sets the stitches,  especially acrylic,  so you would not normally have to block it again. 
I personally sew the item up 'curled' ,  and wash then dry the item flat once completed.  I don't often use an iron,  but the last top I made I shot some steam at it from a steam iron,  at a distance, and patted it gently down around the neckband.
But everyone has their favourite way... 
Joy 😊
C Q
Cynthia Quill

1 year ago
Oh, that sounds encouraging, Joy. Thanks. I figured ai was going to be blocking all the time. 

Thanks.

I just printed off the Swatching is Not Optional info and watched the video. I think that I will make swatches using different yarns today. I can't create the gauge until they have been washed and dried, so I might as well do some different yarns and wash them all at once. Today will be swatch making and washing/drying day. Tomorrow I can count and tag the info on the swatches.
J G
Joy Green

1 year ago
Sounds good 😊
Joy
S J
Sue Jalowiec

1 year ago
Cynthia,
While you are waiting for your swatches.  Why not do a "virtual" knit of your sweater before you even start.

  1. Round neck or V-neck?
  2. Cardigan or Pullover?
  3. Shaped shoulders or not?
  4. Choose your yarn
  5. Choose a stitch pattern
  6. Swatch and establish YOUR  gauge (send me photos with rulers if you'd like a second opinion)
  7. Determine if you have enough yarn
  8. Create your pattern and READ IT COMPLETELY - Even if you print the pattern, read the on-line version with the notes at the right.
  9. What cast on method(s), hem or ribbing?
  10. (for the Prickly pear) Choose top down or bottom up sleeves.
  11. Don't forget the underarm markers (highlight the markers in the pattern)
  12. Knit the back first - the neck shaping is easier
  13. What shaping method will you use?  Decreases or short rows?
  14. (if you are adding shaped shoulders) Get a good visual picture of how the shoulders are shaped AT THE SAME TIME as the neckline
  15. How are you going to finish the shoulders?  Scrap off or bind of the shoulder stitches?
  16. Knit the front to match the back
  17. Get a good visual picture of the neckline/shoulder shaping use the shoulder/neckline shaping chart in the pattern
    cyntiha9.jpg
  18. Block your pieces
  19. Seam one shoulder
  20. What neckline finish are you planning? A doubled stockinette band? A single ribbed band? Hand knit?
  21. Pick up the neckline and knit the band. Remember the neckline stitches indicated in the pattern are an ESTIMATE. You need to determine how many stitches to pick up for your yarn, band style and gauge
  22. Join the seams. (Mattress stitch or ???)
If you go through this  mental exercise and there are "holes" in your knowledge or confidence, you should practice those areas BEFORE YOU START KNITTING.

I know knitting practice pieces is tedious, but why put all that pressure on yourself when you are knitting a "real" sweater.  Mess up on a practice piece an it's no big deal ... mess up on your sweater = tears and frustration.

Just my 2 cents

Sue


C Q
Cynthia Quill

1 year ago

So, knit it on similar yarn without having made a gauge? I don't mind knitting it over and over. I just want to make sure how I do this. I don't know what is meant by virtual knitting it. How do you do that? I know, you have it here, ðŸ˜?. I will look. 

I am doing ribbed hem. I find that kind of fun to sit and casually hand manipulate, of course, I have not done fancy mmipulating, so that might change, 😂. I wasn't so fond of that when I was just starting it, but found my groove the more I did it.

I am doing a round neck with just the stockinette curled edge. Have to figure that one out because it won't be ribbed or folded. About 2" deep in the front. Three inches is too deep. Maybe 1 1/2".

I am going to try set in sleeves again. I think it will make for a narrower armhole requirement.

I have my yarn. I am trying to use up the Walmart purchases, and what they have is good for kiddos because it is sooo soft. 

I don't do patterning yet. I have to remove stitches and rows too much right now. Patterning would add to the issue. Baby steps is fine for me.

The decreases for the Prickly Pear will be done by moving stitches over to their neighboring needles to make the required decreases, then move them over to fill the empty needles. The edge stitch will remain the same. So, I have to swatch and get may gauge determined before I can do anything else, right? 

How do I virtually do it if I can't create the pattern until I get the gauge from the swatch? 

I  have to look for similar yarn of a contrasting color to what I will be using for the Prickly Pear to use with the swatch. The other yarn that is similar in weight is too close in color, just a tad shade darker, so it is hard to determine where the good yarn starts. I am hoping to find some in the other room. If I cannot find any, I will just have to make do with a lighter weight yarn so I can get the contrast and know where the good rows start. I tried with the other yarn, about an hour ago, it was just too difficult. I am not double stranding the lighter weight yarn, though, I have enough issues and do not need that to deal with. 

Thanks.

S J
Sue Jalowiec

1 year ago
By Virtual knitting - I just meant mentally go through the entire process.  Think about all the steps I outlined in the previous email.

 BTW- prickly pear is a drop shoulder pattern, not set in sleeves.  You'll have to choose another pattern for set in sleeves.





C Q
Cynthia Quill

1 year ago
Ok. I will do a drop shoulder, then. I like the sweater. I am not positive what my granddaughter's shoulder width is, so that would be better, more forgiving. 

Thanks, I will do the virtual run throughs. That is s good idea.
C Q
Cynthia Quill

1 year ago
I have made my swat h and it is in the washer. �

11DA8C4A-AA8E-4CDE-854A-70884A2EDD83.jpeg

The holes in the left are for the mast tension, 9. The holes on the right are for the carriage tension 6.

30 stitches between the markers, LK150 med gauge, and 60 rows between the waste yarns. The 2 row section above the tension markers is what is used for the 60 count at that end, Not the cast on 60 rows.

I like the fabric. It will be soft for my granddaughter and will not be too heavy, so not too warm. 
J G
Joy Green

1 year ago
Hi Cynthia
In the lk150 manual it says do 40 rows between waste yarn,  if you're going to use the lk150 ruler for the gauge? 🤔 Screenshot_20220823-200025_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
J G
Joy Green

1 year ago
Or are you following Sue's swatching/measuring?
C Q
Cynthia Quill

1 year ago
I was using a system from this site. There is a video and I printed it off.

Swatching Is Not Optional. 

For the mid size gauge, Cast on 40 stitches, or more. I cast on 60 to keep a good distance from the curl edge, Knit 20 rows. Isolate 30 stitches. I tagged the 16th needle both sides. Knit 20 rows. Tag the same two needles. Knit 20 more rows, scrap off. I so, it is 60 rows for the rows and 30 stitches for the stitches. 

I just use a normal ruler and measure between the markers in a few places, and measure the length between the waste yarn edges. Not using any special ruler for gauges.

I hope I did it right.

This brings up a question. Why does it matter how you do it, as long as the math is correct and you use enough stitches and rows to get a good sample? The gauge should come out the same, if you are doing the math properly, right? I men, I could have isolated 40 stitches, and knit 30 rows 3 times, right? I would have used 40 for the stitches math and 90 for the row math. I don't think swatching is machine specific, or is it? I hope it isn't machine specific. ðŸ˜?.

I really don't want to learn 3 or four methods for swatching, in case I ever use my Brother machines, which I want to do eventually so I can play with patterns, and use other yarn weights. So, I am hoping this method works for all machines. 🤞
J G
Joy Green

1 year ago
No it doesn't matter which method you use,  but I find the easiest way is to use the lk150 ruler,  as you don't actually have to work anything out as it does it automatically for you.   ðŸ˜Š
J G
Joy Green

1 year ago
(It's something to think about / try at a later stage maybe...) 
C Q
Cynthia Quill

1 year ago
Thanks for the info. I might give that a go at some point and compare it to the way I just did it. Thank you very much.

I went through the manual and the course for the LK150 on this site, but I have forgotten some things. I should reread the manual some time when I am sitting in the living room. 
C Q
Cynthia Quill

1 year ago
It os so funny. I get the email about a reply and reply. I go back to my inbox and there is another notice about a reply saying almost what I said. You comments have made me realize what I have forgotten from the manual and course, so thank you very much.
S J
Sue Jalowiec

1 year ago
Cynthia
You got it!

I agree with Joy that using a machine knitting gauge ruler leaves less chance for error.

You can print out your own gauge ruler here.

https://www.knititnow.com/tools/gauge_rulers.cfm

You can use the yellow ruler to measure your 30 stitches and 40 rows.
C Q
Cynthia Quill

1 year ago
Thanks. 

When is the system in your Swatching is Not an Option? Do I use that if I don't have the machine ruler for a machine?
S J
Sue Jalowiec

1 year ago
As you said earlier, if you are measuring with a ruler, it doesn't matter what number of stitches and rows you knit, as long as you are measuring in the middle of the piece and the swatch is large enough to get a good, accurate gauge.
You could measure over 100 stitches and 100 rows if you like - then do the math.

Is there a mistake in the video?
These are the standards

40 stitches / 60 rows
30 stitches /40 rows
20 stitches/30 rows

These are based on the rulers that originally came with the machines.

You can create your own rulers here
https://www.knititnow.com/tools/gauge_rulers.cfm

[gauge_swatch-660x1024]
C Q
Cynthia Quill

1 year ago

This is what I printed from the Swatching is Not an Option Video tutorial

82849115-B6DD-41FA-AEB0-C41D57A644BD.jpeg

Mid-Gauge (LK150 size) Knit 20 rows and knit a marker isolating 30 stitches
Knit 20 rows and place a marker

But, the standard has you knit another 20 rows after the second marker. So, I knit 20 more rows for the midsize, too. I figured if you have 20 before the first marker, 20 rows, marker and 20 rows after the marker with the standard size, there was probably supposed to be 20 rows after the second marker for the Mid-gauge, also. 

I remeasured using the yellow ruler and got the same number of stitches and rows. 

This is where the attached photo came from 

https://www.knititnow.com/challenge/12/Group/295/item#section70

If you click on toe Knit YOUR Swatch in the steps, you get the above page.

C Q
Cynthia Quill

1 year ago
Interesting, I am Premium and I can't view the video in the link above. Odd. I logged out and back in. I exited and came back. I can watch the Swatching is Not an Option but not the one I linked in the above post. 

I will have to try tomorrow. 

This should be the link for the page with what I used.

https://www.knititnow.com/challenge/12/group/295/item#section70
S J
Sue Jalowiec

1 year ago
Actually the instructions in the course are correct. (I added some additional wording to make it more clear)
These are the standards

40 stitches / 60 rows
30 stitches /40 rows
20 stitches/30 rows

If your swatch has 30 stitches and 60 rows, just measure and do the math based on what you have. Forget the ruler for this swatch.
KnitItNow
16772 W. Bell Rd
Ste 110-113
Surprise, AZ 85374-9702
US Mountain Time Zone
-7 GMT
© Copyright 2024 Knit It Now, LLC